cho-ba-wi (Open-top Hat)

Such caps were worn by young women of the official “Yangban” class before 1930. They are now being used again by women for decorative purposes on special holidays. They were worn for warmth in the winter, but the top opening prevented the wearer from getting too warm and catching cold because of the difference between her temperature and that outdoors. The cord in the lower edge allowed the wearer to pull the cap tightly against her face to keep warm. Such caps normally were made of black satin on the outside, but lined with cotton to absorb perspiration. Bright coloured lining material was used near the openings to make it more beautiful. Those made for young girls were more highly decorated with tassels and gold stamps. The ornaments sewn on the front and back could be of gold, silver, jade, or red jade, and they usually had Chinese characters on them expressing wishes for happiness, long life, fortune, and many sons. The gold stamp work was done by masters in workshops.

The phoenix was a symbol of nobility, long life, and power. The Chinese characters mean many sons, peace, health, fortune, long life, wealth, and nobility

The gold stamp work was done with carved wooden stamps. The master painted paste onto it and pressed it onto the cloth. He then took gold leaf that was 100% gold or 80% gold and 20% silver and put in on the paste. He then hit it lightly with a small hammer. It was left to dry for one to two days, and the area that was not pasted was then brushed away.

Cap of black satin decorated overall with gold stamps. The cap is made of two halves joined at a centre seam from front to back, except for the opening at the top, round when worn. This opening and the forehead area are edged with narrow piping. The edge of the cap is straight across the forehead, but then is cut at a right angle so that it covers the ears. The lower edge forms a circle from the right angle to the top opening. Above the edge of the circle and forehead area are gold stamps shaped like flowers. The outer fabric is folded under at the ears and threaded on a cord. A small area of bright blue satin shows in the lining behind the ears and inside the top opening, but the rest is lined with black and grey cotton fabric. At the back of the top opening is a copper ornament shaped like an inverted heart cast in a lotus design, from which are suspended three tassels, one dark pink, one yellow, and one pink. An identical copper ornament is sewn to the front. Below it is a complex knot design in pink cord, and three tassels, two dark yellow and one dark pink.