kain pandjang (Cloth)

Java is an important batik producing area. Although wax or paste resist dyeing is probably quite ancient on Java, the intricately detailed batiks on fine cotton cloth are relatively recent (16th century). The development of Javanese batiks is probably associated with a general flowering of the creative arts around the courts of the central princedoms of Surakarta and Jogjakarta. In Indonesia, textiles have great social and spiritual significance. They were exchanged and displayed in important ritual contexts. Traditional batik patterns and colour choices reflected local preferences and social distinctions. Local dyes could be distinguished and many patterns were restricted in use by rank, family and occasion. With the advent of the export trade, the relaxing of social restrictions, the introduction of chemical dyes and of batik manufacturing, many of these distinctions have disappeared.

For the most part, Indonesian clothing is based on a rectangle, which is draped over the body or sewn in a tube. Additional rectangles are used for belts, mantles and head cloths etc. 'kain pandjang' worn both by men and women is a skirt, wrapped around the hips and knotted and/or belted at the waist.

worn as a skirt

Traditional solo, flowing floral pattern

The process of hand-drawn (tulis) resist-dyed batik cloth making is long and labour intensive, taking 30-50 days. Cloth preparation is done by men; this involves washing to remove sizing, re-sizing and other preparation for later dyeing. Women draw the patterns from memory or with a stencil etc., and then wax both sides with special waxing tools (Tjanting). The most intricate parts of the designs are often done by the most skilled women and major blocks of waxing left for novices. Marbling is caused by the breaking of brittle wax, and may be deliberately done, especially for brown dye, by immersing in cold water. Men often do the dyeing, particularly the indigo stage which is a specialized trade. If several colours are used blue is dyed first. After dyeing all or part of the wax is removed, and the process is repeated for each colour. Surakarta batiks are traditionally dark blue, brown, and cream. 'Traditional hand-drawn solo batik. Probably commercial dyes' (collector's notes).

Skirt cloth with a batik floral motif deisgn in brown with cream details on a dark blue background. Ends are cream.