gam-tu (Hat)

Such hats are related to the hats called Tang-gun, but Tang-gun were usually made of horsehair. This kind of hat is made of leather, paper, or various kinds of fabric, and their shape is simpler that that of Tang-gun. Gam-tu were worn by ordinary men as their formal wear, whereas Tang-gun were worn by educated men and men of the lowest class bound their heads with towels or bands. Gam-tu were worn for special occasions, such as weddings, as well as in daily life. They were worn in the winter to keep the wearer warm. They could be filled with cotton batting for warmth. If the wearer had long hair, it could be contained inside the hat. Brown hats were less formal, compared with black ones. They could be made at home, and did not have to be made by masters, as special skill was not required. Very few are worn now, except very occasionally in traditional villages. Men prefer to wear the hats with crown and brim, called gat.

A light brown brimless hat with an oval opening for the head. Made of light brown fabric pasted over heavy paper which has then been cut and folded to form the hat, which is held together by lacing with a heavy twisted cord at the back. The two cuts form diagonal lines at each side, ending in two points at the upper front. There is a fold parallel to the wearer’s shoulders across the top of the hat, from which a straight-sided flap forms the outside of the back. This is attached to the ends of the wrapped front panel at the centre back with lacing. A narrow edging of paper is pasted along the lower edge of the hat.