shuhma (Sleeveless Dress)

This type of textile is exclusive to this area of Tibet. The wool (called “cha-beh”) comes from the sheep’s chest and underarm (“under-chest wool”). In some reports, the wool is said to come from the small amount of wool in the genital area of the sheep, and such a large garment could be produced only once a year. Worn for everyday activities, e.g. travelling.

Yapshi-Yuthok Kalon Tashi Dhondup Collection: The title Yapshi is given to all families that have a Dalai Lama born into the family, and Shape and Kalon are titles that the four lay Cabinet Ministers hold. The Yuthok family is descended from the 10th Dalai Lama, Tsultrim Gyatso. Being a Minister in the Traditional Tibetan Government, Yapshi-Yuthok Tashi Dhondup was also known as Shape or Kalon Yuthok. There is one item belonging to Kalon Yuthok that is in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum: a Tibetan saddle, which he used on special occasions and during the Tibetan New Year when he would go to the Potala Palace. It was the wish of the late Mrs. Tsering Dolkar Yapshi-Yuthok that the museum display the family's heirloom textiles so that visitors could learn about Tibet's rich history and culture. The wool in this garment comes from the large sheep herds of the Raptenling estate.

According to Mrs. Yuthok, the densely woven black textile is very difficult to make, involving specialized skills to spin the warp and weft and to weave the textile. After weaving, the textile is kneaded in water to shrink it and make it thicker and more dense, a process called ‘fulling.’

Woman’s(?) black, floor length, a-line, sleeveless dress with standing collar and side closure. Made of heavy, very densely woven wool textile. The left side front overlaps the right side front; it fastens at centre front neckline, then overlaps the right side and fastens under the right armhole with a green plastic button and white fabric loop. The collar, front edge, armholes and hem are faced with strips of off-white silk brocade. Hand stitched. Unlined.