montera (Hat)

Bayeta is made on the treadle loom and is used for garments that are cut to size and sewn, such as trousers, shirts and vests. The style, the construction and the loom used are derived from Spanish peasant tradition. Handspun sheep's wool is the traditional material but synthetic yarns are now used as well. The P'alta Montera is an older style of garment which is still worn by women for some special occasions like weddings and fiestas (Santa Cruz on May 3rd and Candelaria, February 2). The only time it is worn by a man is during the Fiesta of San Isidoro when the major dancer is a man dressed as a woman. Wedding padrinos or godparents are responsible for lending the rarer types of textiles to the marrying couple such as hats like this one.

Sold by Trefona Marca Quispe, daughter of the maker. Mariano made it in the late 1940's and it was first used by his wife, Rosa Quispe Flores, for various fiestas and then was used by their daughters, Trefona and Dionisia, for their weddings. It was also worn by Trefona's husband, Juan Flores Machaca, when he was the transvestite dancer in the San Isidro Fiesta about 1981. Most recently, it was worn by Petrona Machaca Quispe when she married and for whom Trefona and Juan Flores were wedding godparents or padrinos. The hat has been carefully stored and lent to many people for occasions requiring it.

fiestas; weddings

The upper fabric is balanced plain weave made of z spun wool yarns. The underside fabrics are factory made. The heavier pink one is a wool cloth known as castilla and the other is a double knit, probably of synthetic yarns. The flower motifs are machine-embroidered and the hat is assembled from cut fabric which is machine and hand stitched together. The interior hat form is made of a local grass called 'chulluwa ichu' which is worked wet into required shape. The brim is supported by a wire form. Tassels are made of commercial synthetic yarns and the chin strap is re-plied synthetic yarns.

A black lenticular-shaped hat with a wide flat brim and a small crown. Top brim surface is decorated with four embroidered flowers that have leaves and stems arranged in reflective symmetry in each quarter. Two brightly coloured tassels are attached to the junction of the brim and crown on opposite sides. The underside of the brim is covered with bright pink cloth surrounded by purple cloth. The brim is stiffened with an inner form of bound grass and an outer form of wire. A pink cord is attached to the underside as a chin tie.