umgingqo (Neck Ring)

Head or neck piece (umgingqo, plural imigingqo) worn my men and women. In the early 20th century beaded items were primarily used for courting Zulu adults, and to display wealth and social standing. Though a unisex accessory, imigingqo are only made by women who can give them as a gift to a male suitor, as a means to regulate the relationships between man and woman. Alternatively, a woman can opt to wear the umgingqo herself, often accessorizing it with other beaded items. Typically more numerous and elaborate beaded items are worn at special or ceremonial occasions, where the wealthiest members of society make their standing known. Today imigingqo can still be found around peoples’ necks or for sale in bead artisan’s shops, though they are less prominent in day-to-day life.

Each colour in Zulu beadwork is associated with a traditional proverb, allowing for a translation of meaning; the specifics of the message are known only to the maker. In this umgingqo, the colours white (obumhlope), black (obumnyama), red (umgazi), yellow (incombo), blue (inkankane), and pink (umgcawu) are used.

Imigingqo are made using a beadworking technique called gongqoloza, which involves wrapping a string of already-strung beads around a core; made from either cloth or glass.

Beaded necklace with bands of coloured beads around a rolled coil. Each band in the design is divided by a single line of beads. There are approximately six lines of beads per band and thirty bands of colours. One end has a fibre loop.