perak (Headdress)

These headpieces are the prized possessions of Ladakhi women and this type of headdress is part of the traditional costume of the region. They are called perak, for the turquoise which lavishly ornaments them. Women collect, trade, and buy the many decorative items sewn onto the basic red shape. This part of the women's costume was introduced from Tibet (said to be by a royal consort) to the Ladakhi area. Wearing the perak shows a woman’s link to a legendary demoness who is depicted wearing such a headdress. The perak is a valuable possession which when not worn is secreted away. It represents the women's wealth. A highly prized possession in Buddhist families. They are never sold except in cases of dire need, and are passed down from mother to daughter. An indication of the importance of the perak is that a woman who dies without daughters leaves her perak to a monastery This type of headpiece is usually worn on auspicious occasions. Worn at celebratory events, i.e., weddings and cultural holidays. Always worn in combination with a tsaru (see Ee70 a-b), to which it is attached with small metal hooks. It is worn as an adornment with the “head of the cobra” centred on the forehead, with the tail hanging down the back of the head. Seen as a marker of family wealth. A perak is frequently ‘refreshed’ by removing the stones and other embellishments from an old one and transferring them to a new surface. In this way, it is passed down from mother to daughter or daughter-in-law over many generations. When not in use, it is stored out of sight for safe keeping.

Purchased from a curio shop in Leh. Gloria Masse and John Calder had tried to purchase a perak from the women in one of the towns they visited but found no one who was willing to part with an object that has such great cultural meaning. According to the shopkeeper from whom they purchased this perak, the piece had come from a monastery, where it had likely been obtained from the estate of a woman who had died leaving no daughters to inherit the piece.

The form of the headpiece is said to represent a cobra. The head of the cobra rests on the forehead of the wearer, the tail section represented by the chuti is attached to the left side.

Part of a woman’s ornamental headdress (see also Ee70 a-b). The headdress (called the perak) is a long (69 cm), straight, narrow (9 cm tapering to 5.5 cm) strip, shaped like a cobra snake with a broad head and long, narrow tail, made of several layers of stiffened cotton textile or felt that is covered with red cotton textile. The head of the cobra is embellished with irregularly shaped stones that have been stitched to the surface (thirty-three pieces of turquoise and green malachite, along with four pieces of agate, two of which are surrounded by rings of turquoise inlay), and two silver kagu or amulets. The body and tail of the cobra are embellished with three long, vertical rows of white cowrie shells, and there is a small brass bell at the tip of the tail. Permanently hand stitched to the left side of the tail of the perak is a rectangular piece (9.8 cm x 33 cm) of similar design, called the chuti. It is embellished with nine vertical rows of coral beads, accented with lapis and jet beads; at the top of the chuti, there is a rectangular amulet with turquoise inlay and gold leaf. An oval shaped piece of agate in a silver setting is at the base of the chuti. On the underside of the headdress, at about the middle of the tail of the perak, a strip of metallic silver mesh, reinforced by stiff cotton textile, is affixed; there is a small silver hook at one end of the mesh strip and a small brass hook at the other end. (Image shows Ee70 a-b -Ee71.)