Poncho Yoke

About this object

History of use

This fragment is just over one-quarter of a poncho shirt yoke. It appears to be woven as a separate entity and would have been sewn to a shirt (O'Neale and Kroeber). Has technical features of both the North and central coast, suggesting it may date to the latter part of the Late Intermediate Period when the Chimu culture dominated the central coast as well. central coast features are yarn spin-and-slit tapestry with occasional dovetailing. The loose and floating wefts on the underside are a north coast feature (Rowe).

Iconographic meaning

The bird with the elaborate crest appears frequently in north coast (Chimu) art on adobe and textiles as well.

Physical description

A fragmentary slit tapestry yoke in 3 shades of yellow, red and accents of white and black. Existing fragment is roughly the shape of a stepped triangle. 5 red and yellow bands outline the stepped hypotenuse and the interior is filled with 18 crested birds, arranged in rows. Colours of birds (predominantly red and yellow) alternate along rows. The bird crest is almost as elaborate as the body but it lacks feet. White tassel with purple wrapping is sewn to tapestry and a loose orange feather adheres to the surface. Heading cord in place along short side. Cut warps extend from stepped tapestry edge. Z-spun singles for weft yarn, z-spun, 2 plied s for warp yarns.